Reality Check

Rick Donaldson’s “Reality Check” Blog and Podcast. 

Section Three
Version 2.00
Updated April, 1997
Supersedes Ver 1.10


              PRUDENT FOOD STORAGE: Questions and Answers.

                            Section Three

                      What Equipment Do I Need?
               Where Can I Find Information and Supplies?

                    From the House at Cat's Green
                            Alan T. Hagan

            The road leading to a goal does not separate you
            from the destination; it is essentially a part of it.

                                           Romany saying

Updated: 9/18/96; 4/16/97

Copyright (c)1997 Alan T. Hagan.  All rights reserved.

Excluding contributions attributed to specific individuals all
material in this work is copyrighted to Alan T. Hagan and all rights are
reserved. This work may be copied and distributed freely as long as the
entire text, my and the contributor's names and this copyright notice
remain intact, unless my prior permission has been obtained.  This FAQ
may not be distributed for financial gain, included in commercial
collections or compilations, or including as a part of the content of
any website without prior, express permission from the author.


PLEASE DIRECT CONTRIBUTIONS, COMMENTS, QUESTIONS AND CRITICISMS TO:
athagan@sprintmail.com

Written material may be sent to the following address below:

A.T. Hagan
P.O.Box 140008
Gainesville, FL   32614-0008



                  TABLE OF CONTENTS

IV.    Specific Equipment Questions

         A. Storage Containers
           1.  Plastic Containers
              - What Makes A Plastic Container "Food Grade"?
              - How Do I Get the Odor Out of Pickle Buckets?
              - Where Do I Find Food Grade Containers?
           2.  Metal Cans
           3.  Glass Jars

         B. CO2 and Nitrogen

         C. Oxygen Absorbers

         D. Desiccants

         E. Diatomaceous Earth


V.     Other Sources (besides this FAQ)

         A. Books
         B. Pamphlets
         C. Magazines
         D. Phone, voice, non-modem
         E. Electronic-online

VI.    Appendices

         A. Shelf Lives of Some Common Storage Foods
         B. Dating Codes Used By Some Food Manufacturers
         C. Food and Equipment Suppliers
           - Mail Ordering Storage Foods What You Should Know
           - Addresses of Suppliers

========================================================================
 IV -- SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT QUESTIONS
========================================================================


A -- STORAGE CONTAINERS

[OK, I'm ready to start my food storage program. What should I put
the food in?]

You should use food grade containers for storing anything you intend
to eat. A food grade container is one that will not transfer non-food
chemicals into the food and contains no chemicals which would be
hazardous to human health. If you are uncertain whether a container is
food-grade or not then contact the manufacturer and ask if a particular
container is approved for food use. Many manufacturers are beginning to
indicate on the container label if it is approved for food use.


1. PLASTIC CONTAINERS


B.1.1 [What makes a bucket or plastic bag "food grade"? And where
can I find them?]


Plastic films and containers of food grade quality are made from
polycarbonate, polyester or polyethylene. Their characteristics in
terms of density, permeability and strength vary. To limit permeability
to moisture and oxygen, films of the above plastics are sometimes
laminated together, frequently with a metallic layer. Military food
packaged in just such a metallized polyester, polyethylene wrap has a
long shelf life (5+ years) if kept cool.

If it is stipulated that it is new, clean and unused then it is my
understanding that any container made of high density polyethylene (HDPE
- with a #2 inside the recycling triangle) is safe for dry foodstuffs.
Anybody out there with factual information yea or nay?

------------------------------------------------------------------------


From: Denis DeFigueiredo <ddefig@newhall.com>
Originally posted in: rec.food.preserving

I called Berlin [eds. note, a plastic container mfgr.
1-800-4-BERLIN] and spoke to them, plus an outfit called Kirk Container
(they manufactured some 5 gallon paint buckets I saw in the local
hardware store). Both places said that buckets made from High Density
PolyEthelene are approved for food. It has to do with the possibility
of interaction between any chemicals in the food and the plastic. As it
turns out, Kirk manufactures only one kind of bucket, and then markets
it for paint, hardware, food, etc. The price is right on the "paint
buckets" - much cheaper than the local restaurant supply house.

High density polyethelene buckets will have HDPE stamped on them, or
a recycle symbol with a "2" in the middle.

DISCLAIMER: I'm only passing on information I received from the
manufacturers. I am in no way professing these things to be absolute
fact!



B.1.2 [Where do I find food grade containers?]


From: "Jenny S. Johanssen" <johanssen@matnet.com>
Originally posted in: rec.food.preserving

Denis - saw your comments on food grade buckets and thought I'd
offer my solution. My son cooks at a local Mexican restaurant. They
get all their strawberries (for the strawberry magaritas at the bar) in
3 gallon plastic buckets. Now you know how many margaritas pass through
a Mexican bar each night - lots. So I asked my son to save me some
buckets. They are ideal for storing flour, rice, I made (from my home
grown raspberries) a delicious raspberry cordial in one of the buckets,
another I made Raspberry wine in. My motto is why buy when you can
recycle! Thanks for giving me the time and space to add my two-bits
worth. - Jenny

-------------------------------------------------------------------------


From: Woody Harper <lager@primenet.com>
Originally posted: rec.food.preserving

...I get topping buckets from Dairy Queen and I have to make sure
there is no trace of the strawberry syrup left. A little detergent and
elbow grease followed by a chlorine solution bath keep everything nice
and clean.--



B.1.3 [OK, I've got some used food grade containers, but they're
pickle buckets. How do I get the smell out?]

I've had fairly good luck doing it this way. Since vinegar is the
primary smell in pickles and it's acidic, we used a base to counteract
it. First we scrubbed the bucket well, inside and out, with Dawn dish
detergent. I imagine most any sort will do. Then we filled the buckets
with hot water and dissolved a cup of baking soda in each. Stir well,
get the bucket as full as you can and put the top on. Put the bucket in
the sun to keep it warm so the plastic pores stay open as much as
possible. In a couple of days come back and empty the buckets. Rinse
them out, fill with warm water again and add about two cups of bleach
and reseal. Put back in the sun for another couple of days. Empty
out and let dry with the tops off. We completely eliminated the vinegar
smell this way. It might be possible to cut the time down a lot, but we
haven't experimented that much since we can't get that many pickle
buckets. Good luck!


------------------------------------------------------------------------


2. METAL CANS

The metal cans used by the canning industry are designed to last
only a few years. Most losses of canned foods occur due to the
breakdown of the can rather than extensive deterioration of the food
under normal storage conditions.

The major disadvantages of metal cans for putting up your own food
are the cans are hard to come by, they take specialized equipment to use
(but so do glass jars) and they can only be used once to seal in food.
Not being reusable is the flaw that has largely made them unpopular for
home canning use. Since they're not interested in reusing the
containers, metal cans make great sense for the commercial canning
industry. The cans are both cheaper (for them) and lighter than glass
jars and this adds to the economy of scale that makes canned foods as
cheap as they are in the grocery store.

For home canners, glass jars are better because even the smallest of
towns will usually have at least one store that carries pressure and
boiling water canners along with jars, rings and lids. With tin cans,
however, a can sealer is necessary and that usually has to be ordered
from its manufacturer.

Tin cans are not really made of tin. They're actually steel cans
with a tin coating on the inside and outside. Some kinds of strongly
colored acidic foods will fade in color from long exposure to tin so
a type of enamel liner called "R-enamel" is used to forestall this.
Certain other kinds of food that are high in sulfur or that are close to
neutral in pH will also discolor from prolonged contact with tin. For
those foods, cans with "C-enamel" are used.

The excellent food preservation book, *Putting Food By* Chapter 6
(see reference list) has a section on the use of tin cans for wet packed
foods.

I know the church of the Latter Day Saints (the Mormons) have gone
over largely to metal canning for their food storage programs. If any
reader out there has experience with their program and/or their
literature that they'd like to share I'd be happy to put it into this
FAQ.


See also IV.C.2 Preventing Corrosion of Canned Goods.


3. GLASS JARS

Compared to metal cans, glass jars are very stable, although they
don't take being banged around very well. The cardboard boxes the jars
come in are well designed to cushion them from shocks. The box also has
the added bonus of keeping out damaging light.

The major advantage of glass jars is that they are reusable, both
jars and rings, with lids being the only part of the package that must
be purchased new for every use.

When you get right down to the bottom line, it is seldom practical
strictly in terms of dollars and cents to put up your own food in jars.
When you count the cost of your equipment, including the jars, rings,
lids and all the rest, along with a not inconsiderable amount of your
personal time, the cost of purchasing or growing your produce, you'll
almost always come out ahead to buy food canned for you by the
commercial canning industry. That said, forget about the strict bottom
line and examine more closely why you want to put up your own food. For
many, gardening is a pleasure and they have to have something to do with
the food they've grown! There's also the fact that for many, you simply
cannot buy the quality of the food you can put up for yourself. The
canning industry tries to appeal to a broad spectrum of the general
public while you can put up food to your own family's specific tastes.
Home canning is not so much about saving money as it is about
satisfaction. You get what you pay for.

If home canning appeals to you, please allow me to point you toward
the rec.food.preserving FAQ where much very good information about
methods and techniques may be found, in particular parts 1-canning;
4-specific equipment questions; 5-spoilage (IMPORTANT!); 6-caveats,
troubleshooting and sources.



B -- CO2 AND NITROGEN

I've gotten the nitrogen and the CO2 gas I've used from a welding
supply store. Dry ice can be had from ordinary water ice suppliers, some
grocery stores and occasionally ice cream stores.

Does anyone out there have other sources they have used for CO2
and nitrogen for food storage purposes? Is there any reason that gas
from a welding supply source shouldn't be used?


C -- OXYGEN ABSORBERS

I don't know exactly when they first showed up on the market for use
by private individuals, but a relatively recent tool for long term food
storage are oxygen absorption packets. The packets,one brand is Ageless
Z300E from the Mitsubishi corporation, absorb free oxygen from the air
around them and chemically bind it. This removes it from being
available for other purposes such as oxidative rancidity and respiration
by insects or bacteria. The practical upshot of all this is that by
removing the free oxygen from your storage containers, you can greatly
extend the storage life of the foods in the containers.

Finding any information about these absorbers has been difficult,
but, thanks to Al Durtschi, I was able to find a study of their
effectiveness from Brigham Young University.

The study tested the absorption capacity of the Ageless Z300E
packets. It found they were even more effective than their rated
absorption capacity of 300 milliliters of oxygen (O2 at sea level
pressure). A single packet sealed into an empty #10 can (80% of one
gallon) reduced the oxygen in the canned air to less than 1/2%.

Even though they apparently will absorb a great deal more than the
300 ml of O2 they are rated for, the following instructions for use are
based on their listed rating. So, when using the Mistubishi Ageless
Z300E oxygen absorption packets, you should allow one packet for every
quart and a half (1430 ml) of *remaining air volume* in your filled
storage containers.

Now determining the volume of air remaining in a filled container is
no easy thing. In the study, #10 cans filled with either elbow macaroni
or powdered milk were used and their respective air volumes were
determined. A can full of elbow macaroni was found to contain 22%
remaining air volume and a can full of powdered milk was found to
contain 10.5%. With these as guides, you should then be able to roughly
figure the remaining air volume of the foods you have in your
containers. You'll have to decide whether the food you are working is
closer to the macaroni or the dry milk in its packing density.
Obviously, this is a rather rough rule of thumb and this is why I kept
my instructions to the listed ratings rather than on what they will
apparently really do. The excess capacity will thus serve to cover the
shortcomings of your reckonings. These absorption packets should be
used only in dry foodstuffs and not with any product that will get them
wet.

NOTE: If you do choose to use oxygen absorbers in packing your food
storage containers you should give some consideration to the container
you're using. The absorber is going be removing the 21% of the
atmosphere that oxygen constitutes. Since nothing is replacing it this
will leave the interior of the storage container with a lower
atmospheric pressure than the outside. If the container is sufficiently
sturdy this pressure differential will be of little consequence. For
containers with thinner walls or more flexible material the pressure
drop could cause them partially collapse or buckle, particularly if
other containers are stacked upon them. This could make them more
likely to lose seal integrity. The sturdier plastic buckets
(Superpails, etc), or metal cans should have no problems. Other
containers should probably be tested or first flushed with an inert gas
(N2, CO2) before the absorber is sealed in.

If anyone out there knows of more precise instructions for the use
of these O2 absorbers, particularly if they're from the manufacturer,
I'd appreciate it if you'll send them to me. To date, the study that Al
pointed out to me is the only solid data I've found. It is from it that
I derived the instructions I gave above.

The following is the verbatim text of the conclusions section of the
Brigham Young study. See V.B Pamphlets for the complete citation of
this study.


Conclusions:

"Oxygen absorbing packets are effective in reducing oxygen contents in
sealed cans. The ageless Z300 packet has a greater than claimed
capacity for absorbing oxygen. Packets abused by 4
hour-exposure-to-air still exceed claimed capacity. It may be
economical to use smaller packets based on the dead air volume instead
of can volume. Smaller packets would have less tolerance for abuse
and personnel would need to be more diligent in protecting the
packets."

"The level of oxygen remaining in the presence of the absorber
packets is sufficiently low to greatly retard development of
rancidity. The biological consequences are not so easy to predict.
Microorganisms range from aerobic to anaerobic, thus no unqualified
statement can be made. The energy requirements of anaerobic bacteria
are met by reactions between oxygen and more than one other molecule.
This makes bacterial energy a higher order of reaction than rancidity.
Thus, the rate of bacterial aerobic reaction would be more seriously
retarded than rancidity. These matters are not of practical
importance because the products to be canned should be too dry to
support microbial growth. Insects are aerobic and would like-wise
suffer retardation of activity. No comprehensive statement can be made
about irreversible inactivation or death of insects. As long as the
oxygen level remains low, insect activity will be lower by at least
the square root of oxygen content. In a practical sense, these packets
are effective in stopping insect activity. USDA does not recognize
any method except disintegration as effective for completely killing
insect eggs."

Use of Oxygen Absorbers in Dry Pack Canning


D -- DESICCANTS

D.1.1 [Many of the food storage programs that I've read call for the
use of desiccants. What is a desiccant?]


A desiccant is a substance with very hygroscopic (adsorbs moisture
from the air) properties. There's any number of different chemicals
that meet this description, but only some of them will serve our
purposes. The most commonly used desiccant is silica gel. This is an
amorphous, highly adsorbent form of silica. It is generally found as
small white crystals looking much like granulated sugar with small
colored specks scattered throughout.

Those specks are how we determine whether the gel is dry or has
adsorbed all of the moisture it will hold. If the specks are blue, the
gel is dry and capable of carrying out its moisture adsorbing mission.
If the specks have turned pink, then the gel has adsorbed all it will
and is now saturated. Part of what makes silica gel so useful is that
it can be refreshed by driving out the adsorbed moisture so it can be
used again. This is a simple as pouring the saturated desiccant into
shallow pans and placing in a 250 F oven for no more than five hours
until the colored crystals have once again turned blue. You can also do
the same thing in a microwave. I generally do mine in one pound batches
at full power for about five minutes. I then stir thoroughly and repeat
until dry.

Although I've never found anything that mentions this, apparently it
is possible for silica gel to break down over time, or at least the
colored crystals can. I had a five pound can stored in an outside shed
here in Florida for several years before I opened it again to use some
of it. Nearly all of the colored indicator specks had broken down and
disappeared. I don't know if the gel itself was still good and with no
way to reliably determine whether it was saturated or not, I discarded
it. The can the gel was in was just cardboard and it gets *very* humid
here in Florida so it really was very poorly stored. Under decent
conditions it may not break down at all. (I've never heard of this
occurring, anyway.)

Keep in mind that silica gel is not edible so when you use it, you
need to be certain it does not spill or leak into your food. I
generally use a double layer of coffee filter paper to seal the
container I've put it in. The paper is very permeable to moisture so
the gel can do its adsorbing, but it's tight enough to not allow the
crystals out.

I've never found any certain rule of how much silica gel to use to
how much dry goods. For my purposes, I use about four ounces of gel to
a five gallon bucket of dry grain and beans. If I think the moisture
content is over 10% when I seal them, I'll go as high as a half pound.
This might be ridiculous overkill, but in Florida everything is high in
moisture because of our ever present humidity. For a one-liter bottle
of dry milk I'll use about one ounce of silica gel rolled up in a paper
cartridge made from a coffee filter. If you're familiar with them, it
looks like a paper cartridge such as you'd use for black powder weapons.
They fit nicely into the bottle and keep the gel in.

I buy all of my silica gel at Wal Mart in their dry flower section
where it is sold in one and five pound cans for flower drying. I've
seen it sold the same way in crafts stores and other department type
stores that carry flower-arranging supplies. You can also buy it from
many other businesses already prepackaged in one form or another to be
used as an absorbent. All of the desiccant that I've found packaged
this way has been rather expensive (to me) so shop carefully.

There are other desiccants, but I am not familiar with any that can
be used with foodstuffs. I know that Kearny recommends using a piece of
gypsum wallboard as a desiccant in his expedient radiation meter in
Nuclear War Survival Skills, does anyone know if this can be used with
dry foodstuffs? How about other desiccants?

---------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pyotr Filipivich <pyotr@coho.halcyon.com>

Simple trick is to dry a piece of wood in the oven - and once it is bone
dry (more than usual) then put it in your container and seal it. The
wood will suck up any available moisture.



E -- DIATOMACEOUS EARTH

Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring substance comprised of
the fossilized remains of marine diatoms. These diatoms are microscopic
in size and are covered in sharp spines that make them dangerous to
exoskeletal insects, but not to animals with internal skeletons. Thus,
it is possible to mix a small amount of DE into your stored grains and
beans to control insects without having to remove the dust again before
you consume them.

To use, you must mix thoroughly one cup of DE to every forty pounds
of grain, grain products or legumes. You need to make certain that
every kernel is coated so it is better to do the mixing in small batches
where you can insure more even coating. Since DE is essentially a kind
of dust, you need to take steps to keep it out of your lungs and eyes.
Even whole wheat flour dust can cause lung irritation if you breath
enough of it.

DE does not kill the insect eggs or pupae, but it will kill adults
and larvae and any eggs or pupae that hatch into adults will die after
coming into contact with it.

IMPORTANT NOTE: There are actually two kinds of diatomaceous earth
to be found on the market and only one of them is suitable for use as an
insecticide to use in your stored grains. The kind that you DO NOT WANT
is the type sold by swimming pool suppliers as a filtering agent. It
has been subjected to a heat treatment that dramatically increases it's
silicate content and makes it unsuitable for use with your foodstuffs.
The type that you want is sold by a number of suppliers as a garden
insecticide. Many organic garden suppliers will carry it. An appendix
with the names and addresses of some DE suppliers may be found in the
food and equipment suppliers section.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: higgins10@aol.com (Higgins10)
Originally posted in: rec.gardens

Good afternoon all. Diatomaceous earth is approved by the USDA as
an animal feed additive, however I have found out that there are vast
differences between various forms of diatomaceous earth. Some DE
products may not be effective in controlling insects, while others may
be harmful to humans and pets. The most important differences between
individual forms of DE is the shape of the diatom, content of
Crystalline Silica, and the purity of the Silica Dioxide. The World
Health Organization cautions that DE with a crystalline silica content
of three percent or higher is dangerous to humans, (and probably pets
and birds as well). Diatomaceous Earth used in swimming pool filters
has close to a 60% crystalline silica content. I know of a product
called Organic Solutions (insecticide) which is approved by both the EPA
and USDA and has a crystalline silica content ranging between 0.36% to
1.12% according to its labels etc. It is classified as Amorphous fresh
water Diatomaceous Earth (whatever that means). However, all literature
I have read assures it is safe for both humans and animals and seems to
be very effective at killing insects. I stumbled across all this info.
while shopping in the mall. If you're interested in reading it too, go
to the Organic Solutions website at http://www.BuyOrgs.com. Hope this
helps answer the question and always use environmentally safe products!
Higgins10

------------------------------------------------------------------------

From kahless@ns.waymark.net Sat Aug 24 14:08:48 1996
To: Dunross (A.T. Hagan) Private e-mail

[previous text deleted]

I have always purchased DE at the local feed store. It's cheaper
there than at the garden and hardware stores. The feed store I buy at
has DE available in bulk, but they'll package up a smaller amount if
that's what you want. My package in the garage doesn't have a brand name
but says Nitron Industries at the bottom. The label recommends 7 pounds
of DE for each ton of grain. Ha! As if I had "tons" of grain in storage
8-D

I've been using DE for grain storage for about 15 years now but flea
control only for the past 6 years. The only fleas we've seen in that
period of time is the ones that hitch a ride in with friends pets. A
very light dusting afterward takes care of that problem. Miracle stuff
as far as I'm concerned since we'd had an awful time with fleas before
we started using DE. Much much much cheaper and as far as I'm concerned
the advantages FAR outweigh the risks.

Sam
(hope that was helpful) 


=========================================================================
V -- Other Sources
=========================================================================

[This FAQ does not tell me what I need to know!]

Please put the question to the misc.survivalism or the
rec.food.preserving newsgroup. You could even resort to the tried and
true method, a book.

The following is a list of books that I have found to have useful
information. It is by no means an exhaustive list on the subject. If
you have books you would like to suggest, please feel free to e-mail me
with the particulars. If you can please include the same kind of
information about the book in question as you see below, particularly
the ISBN #, if it has one.

A. BOOKS:

Build Your Ark! Book 1: Food Self-Sufficiency; Geri Guidetti;
1996; ISBN# 0-938928-01-5; Published by the author; The Ark
Institute, P.O. Box 364, Monkton, MD 21111;
E-mail to arkinst@concentric.net

Cookin' With Home Storage; By Vicki Tate; 1993; ISBN# none;
Published by the author; Address: 302 East 200 Nort, Manti, Utah,
84642; Tel # (801) 835-8283

Home Food Systems; Edited by Roger B. Yepsen, Jr.; 1981;
ISBN# 0-87857-325-9; Rodale Press.

Keeping Food Fresh; Janet Bailey; 1985; ISBN# 0-385-27675-3;
Doubleday & Co.

Keeping the Harvest; Chioffi and Mead; 1991; ISBN# 0-88266-650-9;
Storey Communications.

Making Food Storage Fun, Fast & Easy; LauraAnne J. Logar; 1993; No
ISBN; Published by the author; Address: LauraAnne J. Logar, 17140
Oak Leaf Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca 95037-6621

Making the Best of Basics - Family Preparedness Handbook; James T.
Stevens; 1996; ISBN #1-882723-25-2; Gold Leaf Press
http://www.webcom.com/infinet/basics.html

Marlene's Magic With Food Storage; Marlene Petersen; 1991;
No ISBN; Published by the author; Marlene's Magic, 4958 Alpine
Circle Highland, Utah 84003 (801) 756-6423

Nutrient Content of the U.S. Food Supply, 1909-1988; 1992;
Nutrient Education Division; Human Nutrition Information Service of
the USDA.

Nutritive Value of American Foods; Catherine S. Adams; 1975;
No ISBN; USDA Handbook No. 456

Putting Food By; Greene, Hertzberg and Vaughn; 1982 (14th edition);
ISBN# 0-525-93342-5; Penguin Group.

Root Cellaring (1994); Mike and Nancy Bubel; ISBN 0-88266-703-3.

Whole Grains; Sara Pitzer; 1981; ISBN #0-88266-251-1; Garden Way
Books

B. PAMPHLETS:

Consumer Information Center, Department EE, Pueblo CO 81009. Ask
for the Consumer Mailing List Catalog. Can order those nifty USDA
pamphlets from this catalog.

Check your extension service office for pamphlets, which can usually
be bought for a dollar or so. Especially important for high
altitude canning, getting recipes specific for locale, even
information on U-Pick sites and local farmers' markets.

Controlling Indianmeal Moths in Stored Shelled Corn and Soybeans
Phil Harein and Bh. Subramanyam; FS-0996-A-GO Revised 1990
Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota

FOOD STOCKPILING FOR EMERGENCY SHELTERS. Food and Materials
Division, Commodity Stabilization Service, USDA, April 1961]

Food Storage In The Home FN502
Utah State University Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin

Frequently Asked Food Questions FN 250, 1993
Utah State University Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin

Molds And Mycotoxins In Feeds; C.M. Christensen, C.J. Mirocha,
R.A. Meronuck; FO-3538-C-GO 1988;
Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota

Molds In Grain Storage; Richard A. Meronuck
FO-0564-C-GO Revised 1987
Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota

Nonfat Dry Milk FN142
Utah State University Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin

Use of Oxygen Absorbers in Dry Pack Canning; Albert E. Purcell,
Theodore C. Barber, John Hal Johnson; Benson Quality Assurance
Laboratory Department of Food Science, Brigham Young University

C. MAGAZINES:

American Survival Guide
P.O. Box 68033
Anaheim, CA 92817-0833
(714) 693-1866

Backwoods Home Magazine. Dave Duffy, publisher.
P.O. Box 40
Montague, CA 96064
(916) 459-3500
(800) 835-2418 (orders only)
E-mail: backwood@snowcrest.net
http://www.snowcrest.net/backwood

Countryside & Small Stock Journal
W 11564-P Hwy. 64
Withee, Wisconsin 54498
(800) 551-5691

Mother Earth News
P.O. Box 56302
Boulder, CO 80322-6302
(303) 678-0439

D. PHONE: (non-modem)

Your extension service--check your local university directory,
especially if its a Land Grant College; look under Government
Services, under Dept. of Agriculture. Master Preservers--similar to
Master Gardeners or Master Composters.

E. ELECTRONIC:

ftp ftp.ucdavis.edu pub/extension/4h-youth fp001.zip-fp008.zip
Files are compressed, written in Word Perfect 5.1 or Post Script
format. Files are eight lessons in food preservation.

ftp://ftp.michvhf.com/pub/rec.food.baking/FAQ
The FAQ for the rec.food.baking news group. Good stuff.

http://www.tiac.net/users/mcron/rff1.html
Website with the rec.food.preserving FAQ's on it.

=========================================================================
VI -- APPENDICES
=========================================================================

A. SHELF LIVES OF SOME COMMON STORAGE FOODS

From: Geri Guidetti <arkinst@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: misc.survivalism
[Contact info in V.A.Books]

...As far as general rules for shelf lives of common veggies and fruits
is concerned, jarred foods keep at least 6 months longer than cans if
stored in the dark as well as dry and cool. Glass is inert. Acid or
acidified foods such as sauerkraut, apple sauce, pickled beets, tomatoes,
tomato sauces, pineapple and citrus juices, etc. keep the least length
of time in cans. They do interact eventually with the metal of the can.
They will taste "tinny" and blacken as well. These are suggested by
their mfrs. to be eaten within 18 months of the day packed--that's where
the code comes in. Jars of the same products last at least 24 months
from date packed. Non-acid foods in cans--corn, green beans, mixed
veggies, mushrooms, potatoes, yams, asparagus, carrots, etc.-- will keep
a minimum of 24 months. Beyond these dates, though the food will not
have deteriorated beyond eating, there is a steady vitamin loss in
percentage points each year for individual veggies and fruits. The
percentage varies with the product. But they ARE still edible. The
cooler/darker your storage conditions, the greater the shelf life as a
rule and you can push these dates some.

Interestingly, the shelf life of evaporated milk varies with the fat
content. From my book: Skimmed evap. milk, only 9 months. Lowfat, 12
months. Regular, 15 months. Sweetened condensed, 12 mo. This, Carnation
says, has to do with the stability of the milk proteins and their
expected performance in the recipes people use them for. They still have
nutrition but will fail performance tests in cakes, etc. The skimmed and
low fat versions will also darken faster.

For the group member asking about the longevity of canned meats:
Meat, salmon, stews and tuna--24 months recommended shelf life. Again,
you can extend that with no danger if unopened but with fewer intact
nutrients.




B. DATING CODES USED BY SOME CANNERS AND PACKERS


From: Geri Guidetti <arkinst@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: misc.survivalism
[Contact info in V.A.Books]

Tammy Barette wrote:

> I was a little shocked to learn that MREs are expected to be
>usable for only a 5-7 year period. I routinely keep store bought
>canned goods for more than two years, regardless of their expiration
>date. So far I have never encountered a bulging can or food which has
>a funny odor, and I have never experienced food poisoning.

> Just how long will a canned meat product stay fresh? Vegetable
product?

> (Today was a wonderful lesson in food shortages -- we're expecting
>a whoppping 4" of snow tonight and the bread shelves are empty at the
>stores in large areas of Ohio.)

I will do my best to answer. First, individual companies make up
their own codes to be stamped on the tops of cans and jars. I finally
got disgusted enough trying to decipher them when doing research for my
book that I called a few big food corporations and asked "what's up?"
with these coding systems. Carnation Foods was one and deciphered their
evaporated milk stamps--example: 4145MC 202S The only thing important
to us lies in the first four digits. The 4 stands for 1994, the year the
milk was packed. The 14 represents the 14th day of...the 5, the 5th
month, May of the year. This can was packed May 14, 1994, well past
their recommended shelf life. The rest of the letters and digits
represent plant and lot numbers as I recall. Now let's make things more
confusing: A can of store brand cranberry sauce is stamped NOV 98 MO
652. This firm stamps the pull date, or date after which they can't
guarantee top quality. Much more direct for our purposes. A jar of
mustard, another company: 696270 Packed June of 96 and should have a
shelf life of at least 2 years if packed in a cool dark place. Remember
this is a glass jar, not an acid-sensitive tin can. More on that in a
minute. A jar of tomato sauce, not a can: OCT98 1003....etc. Bless
them, too, an easily read code that suggests it's at top condition until
Oct. of '98 if kept in good storage conditions.

In a nutshell, my observations have been that more and more mfrs.
are beginning to use more user-friendly codes, but the funny business
still persists for many. On such cans, like the evap. milk, read the can
label carefully to locate a consumer hotline or customer service no.
Call it and ask for a translation and then register your dissatisfaction
with their coding system. Tell them you and your food storing friends
won't be able to buy their products if you are to be kept in the dark
concerning expiration dates, etc. They WILL listen. BTW, my discussions
with Carnation disclosed that the grocery store, a large, reputable
chain, had sold me evap. milk two years beyond the recommended storage
date! Carnation called the store to tell them to pull it off the shelves
and then sent me two coupons for free cans for the ones bought past
date...


C. FOOD AND EQUIPMENT SUPPLIERS




C.1 - Mail Ordering Storage Foods - What You Should Know

When it comes to building a long term food storage program, sooner
or later it is going to become necessary to seriously consider mail
ordering at least a part of the foods you want to store. Even for
those of us who try do as much as we can locally there are some things
which are not going to be easily available in your area. Because of
this I have included below a list of food and equipment suppliers where
just about anything can be found.

Because many do find it necessary or desirable to purchase through
mail order I am including a few points which should be considered before
shelling out the cash.

1. Find out how much the shipping costs are going to be. Grains and
legumes are relatively cheap, but weigh a lot when bought by the
five or six gallon-bucket full. Because of this, shipping charges can
sometimes as much as double the actual cost of the product by the time
you get it to your door. Adding insult to injury is the new $2.00 per
bucket fee UPS is charging. Compare carefully each company's list price
*and* their shipping charges, combined, when deciding who to order from.
Saving up for a larger order, or trying to find someone to combine
orders with might enable you to make a large enough order to get a price
break on shipping. You could also take a vacation in the area of the
company's location or swing through the area on the way back from one.
If you choose to do this, be certain to call ahead and let them know so
they'll have your order ready and waiting for you. The company in the
next state may be slightly higher on the list price, but end up being
much cheaper than having it shipped in from six states away.

2. Ask the supplier when your order is going to ship. Some
suppliers are way behind in order filling and you could be
waiting and waiting. Slowness in shipping is not necessarily a sign of
bad business. Some suppliers may drag their feet, but others may be
genuinely swamped by the volume of business they are receiving because
they have a good product at a fair price.

3. How fresh is the product you are ordering? Freshness is what
it's all about when it comes to storage foods. If a food has a
five year shelf life in its container then you want as much of those
five years to be on *your* shelf, not the supplier's.

4. Be very clear as to how the product you are ordering is packed.
Many suppliers offer identical foods packed in several different
ways. Be certain the product number you are giving the salesperson is
for the product packed in the manner in which you want it.

5. If you are ordering foods packed in a nitrogen flushed oxygen
free container (with or without an oxygen absorber packet added)
then ask about the laboratory test results that measure the oxygen
content of the head gasses in the container. This is of great
importance if you are counting on the extra storage life such packaging
will give you. There are but a few companies such as Perma Pak, Sam
Andy and Walton Feed that actually produce packaged storage foods and
most dealers only distribute and retail their products. If the dealer
can not produce the manufacturer's test data measuring the head gasses
of the products they are selling then keep looking.

6. If you are purchasing wheat and intend to use it primarily for
bread making then be sure to ask about its protein content. The
best breads need at least 12% protein and the higher the better. Also
take a close look at the weight of the grain. One company's five or six
gallon bucket of wheat may not weigh the same as another's. The same
applies to dehydrated foods such as fruits, vegetables, tvp, etc. Ask
about the moisture content of bulk foods which are not already packaged
for long term storage. 10% moisture is where you want to be for grains,
legumes and most everything else.

7. What is the company's damage and return policy? If your
carefully packed superpails and #10 cans get dented or cracked in
shipping you'll need to have them replaced. Most mail order companies
will require you to contact the shipper (such as UPS) for a claim
number. The shipper may or may not require an inspection so don't
destroy any packaging or containers until you know for sure.

Does anyone else know of anything else a person should look out for
or ask about when mail ordering storage food?



C.2 - Addresses of suppliers

I have accumulated the following list of names and addresses of
various suppliers of one thing or another relating to food preservation
and storage. They are listed in alphabetical order and their position
in the list should not be taken as an indication of worthiness.
Naturally, addresses, phone numbers, web sites, etc change over time so
if you have more current information than I'm giving here, please be so
kind as to let me know. Additionally, I'm always looking for new
companies so if you have some that I don't have I'd like to see those
too. Thanks - ed.


ALL GONE!
Phone: 800-373-3423
E-mail allgone1@vero.com

Diatomaceous earth

ALPINEAIRE FOODS
Post Office Box 926
Nevada City, Nevada 95959
(800) 322-6325
http://www.alpineaire.com/
E-mail: sales@alpineaire.com

Shelf stable foods with a long storage life. Many foods that
require no cooking. Also backpacking meals.

AMERICAN FREEDOM NETWORK, THE
P.O. Box 430
Johnstown, CO 80534
(800) 205-6245 orders
http://www.amerifree.com/index.htm
E-mail: orders@amerifree.com

Mainstay Emergency Ration bars, grain mill

BEST PRICES STORABLE FOODS by Bruce Hopkins
1737 Cascade St
Mesquite (Dallas?) Texas 75149
(972) 288-0262
(972) 288-4610

http://web2.airmail.net/foodstr2/

Long term storage foods and oxygen absorbers

CHAR-BROIL OUTLET STORE
1528 Bradley Park
Columbus, GA
(706) 576-6351

Meat smoking supplies

CON YEAGER SPICE COMPANY
144 Magill Rd
Zelienople, PA 16063
(800) 222-2460

Meat curing, smoking, herbs and spices

COOKBOOK SHOPPE, THE
Vickie Tate
302 East 200 North
Manti, Utah 84642
(801) 835-8283

Home Storage & Preparedness Books including Cooking With Home
Storage.

COUNTRY LIVING PRODUCTS
14727 56th Avenue NW
Stanwood, Washington 98292
(206) 652-0671

Manufacturer of the Country Living grain mill.

DEWEY RESEARCH CENTER
3800 Dewey Avenue, Ste 125
Rochester, NY 14616
(800) 208-9576
(716) 865-8994 fax
http://www.4drc.com/

Alpineaire foods

DIATECT CORPORATION
c/o Gordon Dill 410 E. 48th St Holland, MI 49423

Diatomaceous earth

DRYING PANTRY, THE
9756 South Kristin Drive
Sandy, Utah 84070
(801) 571-9115

A non-electric kitchen food dryer. Uses naturally occurring heat,
either from the sun or your homes heating system. Hangs from hook to
save counter space. Is also serves as a sprouter.

EMERGENCY ESSENTIALS
National Catalog Sales Office
165 S. Mountain Way Drive
Orem, Utah 84058
(801) 222-9596
(800) 999-1863 Toll Free Order Line
http://www/emergencyessentials.com/
E-mail: essentials@mtmarketplace.com

Food Storage, MRE's, Water Purifiers and Storage Containers.

EPICENTER, THE
6523 California Ave SW, #161
Seattle, WA 98136
(206) 937-5658 voice/fax

http://TheEpicenter.com
e-mail: bjnelson@TheEpicenter.com

Storage food supplier, equipment, water purification.

FAMILY SUPPLY
525 South Main St
Heber City, Utah 84032
(801) 654-3314

Long term food supplies, Dairy Delight milk

FOOD STORAGE CENTRAL
P.O. Box 561
Salem, OR 97308
(503) 585-0478

http://www.foodstorage.net:80/index.html
E-mail: director@foodstorage.net

Alpineaire foods

FOSSIL SHELL SUPPLY COMPANY
P.O. Box 50225 Amarillo TX 79159
(800) 370-9920
(806) 355-4236 voice
(806) 351-0777 fax
E-mail jandj@arn.net

Diatomaceous earth

FUTURE FOODS
Post Office Box 1922
Orem, Utah 84059-1922
(800) 949-FOOD (3663)

Pantry size cans of dehydrated foods that are packaged for long term
storage.

HAPPY HOVEL FOODS
P.O. Box 781
Yelm, WA 98597
(800) 637-7772
(360) 458-4445

http://www.wwmagic.com/haphov/
e-mail: haphov@seanet.com

Pre-packaged food plans, bulk grains, N2 packed dehydrated foods,
MRE's.

HOME CANNING SUPPLY & SPECIALTIES
P. O. Box 1158
(2117 Main Street)
Ramona, CA 92065
(619) 788-0520 (phone)
(619) 789-4745 (fax)
(800) 354-4070 (orders only)

Home canning and food preservation supplies such as bulk pectin.
They offer regular pectin, low-methoxyl pecting without
preservatives, and low-meth pectin with preservatives.

HOMESTEAD FOODS
Post Ofice Box 96
Victor, Montana 59875
(800) 838-3132

Alpineaire Gourmet Reserves. Cans or back-pack pouches.

LAKERIDGE FOOD STORAGE
(801) 221-8207 fax
(800) 336-7127
http://www.shopsite.com/lfs/
E-mail: lfsfood@ix.netcom.com

MRE's, long term storage foods

LEHMAN'S HARDWARE
P.O. Box 41
Kidron, OH 44636
http://lehmans.com

Not a great deal of food, but a *lot* of food related equipment,
grain mills, butchering, cheesemaking, dehydrators, pitters,
peelers, etc. Most of it non-electric. Many books. Free shipping
on many orders.

LIFE SPROUTS
Post Office Box 150
Paradise, Utah 84328-0150
(800) 241-1516

Manufactures the Sprout Master Sprouter and carries organic
sprouting seeds. Also markets, recipe books, food storage.

LIFE SUPPORT INTERNATIONAL, Inc.
200 Rittenhouse Circle
Building 4 West
Bristol, PA 19007
(215) 785-2870

Canned drinking water (10 oz aluminum cans)

LIVE OAK FARMS
(888) 359-5596
(405) 794-7365
The site did not list a postal address
http://www.universalweb.com/food/index.htm
E-mail: ron@universalweb.com

N2 packed dehydrated foods, pre-packaged food plans, bulk foods and
MRE's.

MAGIC MILL
3686 South 2455 East
Salt Lake City, Utah 84109
(801) 943-8860

Grain mills, dehydrators, bread machines, sprouting seeds, storage
foods, etc.

MAJOR SURPLUS
435 W. Alondra Boulevard
Gardena, California 90248
(800) 441-8855

MRE's and some food/water storage containers.

MAPLE LEAF INDUSTRIES, INC
480 South 50 East
Ephriam, Utah 84627
(801) 283-4400 voice
(801) 283-4200 fax
(800) 671-5323 orders only

http://www.mapleleafinc.com/
e-mail: food@mapleleafinc.com

Long term storage foods and supplies

NATURAL FOOD SYSTEMS
Post Office Box 1028
Pagosa Sprgs, Colorado 81147
(800) 874-2733

Salad-A-Day, sprout growing systems with over 30 varieties of seeds
and beans. Distributors of certified & Grown Chemical Free
seeds & beans.

NITRO-PAK PREPAREDNESS CENTER
147 No. Main Street
Heber City, Utah 84302
(800) 866-4876

Dehydrated, freeze-dried, no-cook & storage foods. Year supply
units, water storage containers and filters, military ready-to-eat
meals (MRE's), wheat and grain mills. Call or write for catalog -
$3.

OREGON FREEZE DRY, INC (Mountain House)
P.O. Box 1048
Albany, OR 97321
(800) 547-0244
(541) 967-6527 fax
(541) 926-6001 international
http://www.ofd.com/mh/index.html
E-mail: mtnhouse@ofd.com

Manufacturer of Mountain House freeze dried foods in pouches and
larger cans. Does not sell direct, but through distributors.

OUT N BACK
P.O. BOX 1279
Provo, Utah 84603
(801) 533-7415

MRE's, long term storage food, grain mills, storage containers

PATRIOT'S CANTEEN
Atlanta, Ga
(888) 226-8336
(770) 592-1698 voice
(770) 516-1200 fax
http://www.mojoski.com/canteen/
E-mail: Canteen@mojoski.com

Bulk foods, N2 packed dehydrated foods, N2 packed grains, MRE's

PENZEYS, LTD. SPICE HOUSE
P.O.Box 1448
Waukesha, WI 53187
(414) 574-0277

Herb and spice supply house

PERMA PAK
3999 South Main #S-3
Salt Lake City, Utah 84107
(800) 594-8974 Ext 120

Dehydrated and freeze dried food processor, supplies

PIONEER OUTFITTERS
P.O. Box 11333
Chickasaw, Alabama 36611
(334) 452-9267

Freeze dried foods, Mainstay Emergency Food Rations

PONDEROSA SPORTS & MERCANTILE, INC.
Post Office Box 1016
Eagle, Idaho 83616
(208) 939-1513 voice
(208) 939-5413 fax

Preparedness food, equipment and supplies. MRE's, freeze dried
foods, Heatermeals, BFM (Balanced Food Mix), 26 page catalog, send
$1.

PREPARED ENTERPRISES
Post Office Box 19572
Oklahoma City, OK 73144
(405) 682-8836
(800) 579-4118

Sam Andy & Alpine Aire Foods. 

PREPAREDNESS PLUS
P.O. Box 1985
Orem, Utah 84059-1985
(801) 226-4188

Long term storage food, freeze dried, grain mills,

PREPAREDNESS RESOURCES
3999 South Main, Suite S-2
Salt Lake City, Utah 84107
(801) 268-3913, ext. 125

Perma Pak full line of dehydrated foods.

PRODUCT SOURCE INTERNATIONAL
255 East 400 South, Ste 150
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
(801) 531-8996 voice
(801) 328-1243 fax

http://www.downtown-web.com/psi/
e-mail: psiusa@aros.net

long term storage foods and supplies

PROFESSIONAL MARKETING GROUP
912 Rainier Avenue S.
Seattle, Washington 98144
(800) 227-3769
(206) 322-7303

Pyramid cooking system & barbecue, Pressaireizer professional model
food dehydrator, Foodsaver vacuum packing system.

PROVISIONS 2000, INC
2271 W 12th Lane
Yuma, AZ 85364
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/prov2000/main.htm
E-mail: prov2000@sprynet.com

Alpineaire gourmet reserves

RAINY DAY FOODS
2315 Collard Valley Rd
Post Office Box 1901
Cedar Town, Georgia 30125
(770) 748-3297
(888) 412 3434 orders
http://www.cyberatl.net/~rdsupply/
E-mail: rdsupply@cyberatl.net

Sam Andy, low moisture food, Mountain House, oxygen absorbers.

READY RESERVE FOODS
Post Office Box 697
Beaumont, California 92223
(800) 453-2202

Over 100 different dry food products for long term storage.

SAFE TREK
90 Safe Trek Place
Bozeman, MT 59715
(406) 586-4840
(800) 424-7870
http://www.safetrek.com/
E-mail: SafeTrek@avicom.net

Pre-packaged food plans, grain mills.

SAM ANDY FOODS
800 West Airport Frwy., Ste. #1100
Irving, Texas 75062
(214) 445-4144
(800) 331-0358

Manufacturer of low-moisture, long storage life foods. equipment,
supplies and information for survival and emergency preparedness.
Publishes a periodic newsletter - call to request a free copy. Dealer
opportunities available.

SAUSAGE MAKER, THE
26 Military Road,
Buffalo, NY 14207-2875
(716) 876-5521 voice
(716) 875-0302 fax

Mail order sausage and meat smoking supplies,
training videos, equipment, etc

SECURE FUTURE
640 Bailey Rd, #128
Pittsburgh, CA 94565
http://www.securefuture.com
E-mail: questions@securefuture.com

N2 packed dehydrated foods (Ready Reserve), Pre-packaged food plans,
grain mills.

SIMPLER LIFE EMERGENCY PROVISIONS
1320 Johnson Dr.
Industry, California 91745
(800) 266-PREP (7737)
FAX (818) 961-5648

Kits, long term storage foods, equipment. Discounts for quantities,
group purchases, incentives awards and fund raisers. Call or fax for
free catalog.

SOUTH SUMMIT CORPORATION
P.O. Box 851293
Richardson, TX 75085
(972) 495-5270 voice
(972) 495-9579 fax
http://www.southsummit.com
E-mail: southsummit@topher.net

Long term storage foods

STAR FOOD PROCESSING, INC.
3444 East Commerce Street
San Antonio, Texas 78220
(800) 882-MEAL

Fully cooked heat & eat serving trays. Each tray contains 106 ounces
of fully cooked, ready to eat products. Thirty minutes time required
to prepare a meal from pantry to the table. This product is shelf
stable and requires no refrigeration or freezing for storage. Normal
shelf life is two years.

STOREHOUSE PRODUCTS
Post Office Box 690021
San Antonio Texas 78269
(210) 690-7632

A Texas distributor providing a complete line of dehydrated foods,
grain mills, water purification systems. Call or write for a free
catalogue.

SURVIVAL CENTER, THE
19223 Cook Road
Box 234
McKenna, Washington 98558
(360) 458-6778 voice
(360) 458-6868 fax
(800) 321-2900 orders only

http://www.zyz.com/survivalcenter/
e-mail: sales@survivalcenter.com

A *lot* of books, not all of them useful. Pre-packaged food plans.
Mountains House freeze dried foods in pouches and cans. MRE's.
Grain mills. For catalog send $2.00.

WALTON FEEDS,INC
135 North 10th
P.O. Box 307
Montpelier, ID 83254
(800) 269-8563
http://www.lib.ab.ca/walton/

Major manufacturer and supplier of storage foods. N2 packed
dehydrated foods, grains/legumes bulk and N2 packed, oxygen
absorbers. Very informative web site.

WESTERN RESERVE FOOD AND SUPPLY CO
P.O. Box 19175
Cleveland, OH 44119
(216) 383-1777
(888) 366-3482
http://www.nmarket.com/wreserve/index.html
E-mail: wrfood@cyberspace.net

Dehydrated and freeze dried foods, MRE's, Alpineaire


United States Plastics(800-537-9724)

FDA approved plastic food storage containers

Consolidated Plastics(800-362-1000)

FDA approved plastic food storage containers


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Postal mail address:
 A.T. Hagan
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